Piped Chocolate Shortbread Cookies 朱古力唧花牛油酥餅

Piped shortbread cookies are my family’s all-time-favourite but they are a nightmare for me to make. Women’s wrists (or is it just mine???) are simply not strong enough for the piping job, especially during the winter. In my experience, at cool room temperature, the cookie dough is usually too firm for piping. My wrists would be so sore and my cookies would end up having ragged edges. I have already discussed the keys to success when it comes to making piped or spritz cookies (read about my blog posts, Piped Vanilla Bean Shortbread Cookies and Viennese Sablés). The key is to start off with butter that is very, very, very soft. This time, I even include the temperatures of my dough so there are more references other than just pictures and my written descriptions.
牛油酥餅曲奇是我們家的至愛,但對於EC而言,這絕對是又愛又恨的,畢竟女性腕力有限(還是只有自己手無縛雞之力?),冬天做擠花曲奇是一件苦差啊!室內溫度低時,曲奇麵團一般會很偏硬,需要花費很大的氣力才能擠出麵團,雙手擠到發酸之餘,有時麵團邊緣也會出現裂紋。EC曾在維也納曲奇(唧花牛油曲奇)雲尼拿唧花牛油曲奇兩篇文章中分享過擠花曲奇的製作心得,其中一個重點就是,牛油必須要放到非常、非常、非常的軟身。這次EC甚至把麵團的溫度記錄下來,好讓大家除了在圖片和文字敘述以外,有多些資料可作參考。

This chocolate version is a variation of Piped Vanilla Bean Shortbread Cookies but I’ve modified it slightly by increasing the ratio of cornstarch to flour. This results in cookies that are even more tender. You may be daunted by the amount of butter being used here but please do not reduce the amount. Shortbread cookies are meant to be loaded with butter!!! If you are concerned that shortbread cookies are fattening, eat less instead of making them with less butter so you feel less guilty. If butter is reduced, the butter flour ratio is skewed, which leads to stiffer dough that is harder to pipe. Some people add milk or egg to soften up the dough so it’s more pipable. However, this also impacts both the taste and texture of the cookies. Note that I am not not saying this approach won’t work or is not doable. My point is just that altering the ingredients or ratio of a cookie recipe will result in a change of texture and taste. For instance, my Matcha Spritz Cookies contain egg yolk whereas my Viennese Sablés and Espresso Chocolate Spritz Cookies make use of egg white. They all have different and unique textures and are all delicious. If you are free (and have the quota for the extra amount of butter), I encourage you to try different recipes to see for yourself.
這是雲尼拿醬牛油曲奇的朱古力版本,EC把食譜中粟粉的比例增加了,令曲奇變得更加酥鬆。看過配方後,你或許會覺得牛油含量很多,但請勿擅自把牛油分量減掉,酥餅曲奇本身就是由大量牛油製作而成的啊!怕肥的話,你要做的是吃少一點,而不是貿貿然去砍掉酥餅配方的牛油份量從而使自己感覺良好。減掉牛油變相增添了乾性材料的比重,這會令麵團變硬,使麵團難以擠出。為了令麵團變得好擠一點,有些人會選擇在配方中加添牛奶或蛋液使麵團更軟身,可是此舉會影響到製成品的味道和質地。請注意EC沒有說過這些辦法不可行,EC想表達的是,當配方中的成份和分量有變動,隨之而來的將會是製成品質地和味道上的改變。舉個例子,在抹茶唧花牛油曲奇中,EC加入了蛋黃,而維也納曲奇(唧花牛油曲奇)朱古力咖啡唧花牛油曲奇則使用了蛋白,它們各自有自己的特色,也很好吃。有時間(又不怕胖)的話,EC建議大家自己嘗試不同食譜,親自比較一下箇中分別,順便找出自己喜歡的味道。


Piped Chocolate Shortbread Cookies
朱古力唧花牛油酥餅

Makes 18 to 20
18至20塊份量

Ingredients
120 g salted butter (very soft)
45 g icing sugar
76 g cake and pastry flour
76 g cornstarch
13 g unsweetened cocoa powder

材料
含鹽牛油 (非常柔軟) 120克
糖霜 45克
低筋麵粉 76克
粟粉 76克
無糖可可粉 13克

Directions 做法

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or with an electric mixer, beat butter on low speed until smooth. Add icing sugar and beat on medium-low speed until mixture resembles soft mayo that is a bit shiny looking. If the butter looks stiff, warm the sides of the mixing bowl briefly with a hair-dryer to further soften the butter mixture. The ideal temperature of the mixture is 23-24℃.
牛油放入攪拌盆中,以電動打蛋器或座枱式攪拌器(使用攪拌槳配件)低速把牛油打滑後加入糖霜,中低速拌勻至有點泛油、蛋黃醬般柔軟狀態,若牛油偏硬可以風筒輕吹攪拌盤外側進一步軟化牛油,測量混合物的溫度,理想值為23-24℃。

Combine and sift together the flour, cornstarch and cocoa powder in a large bowl. Add to the butter mixture in two batches. Mix with the paddle attachment briefly then fold with a spatula to form a soft and pliable dough. Do not over-mix. A stiff dough is hard to pipe. If that is the case, soften the dough by briefly heating the sides of the mixing bowl with a hair dryer. The ideal temperature of the dough is 24-25℃.
低筋麵粉、粟粉和可可粉混合過篩,分兩次加入牛油混合物中,以攪拌槳配件略拌勻後轉用刮刀,以切拌手法拌至無粉粒成軟麵糊即可,不要過度攪拌,若麵糊偏硬時可用風筒輕吹攪拌盆外側軟化麵糊以便擠出,測量麵糊的溫度,理想值為24-25℃。

Transfer the soft dough into a thick or silicone piping bag fitted with a large pastry tip. Eliminate all trapped air bubbles then pipe the dough onto a parchment paper lined cookie sheet. This portion will make about 18 to 20 large cookies as shown in the picture. Refrigerate for 10 minutes. While waiting, preheat the oven to 325℉/160℃.
把麵糊倒進已備大號花嘴的厚身或矽膠擠花袋中,擠出袋中氣泡後在已墊牛油紙的曲奇焗盤上擠出造型,如圖般擠大約可做18至20塊,放進雪櫃普通格冷藏10分鐘,等待期間預熱焗爐至325℉/160℃。

Slide the piped cookies and the parchment paper onto another room temperature cookie sheet. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool completely on a cooling rack. For better flavour, store cookies in an airtight container and allow the cookies to rest and develop flavour overnight and consume the next day.
把曲奇連牛油紙轉移到另一室溫曲奇焗盤,焗25分鐘後取出,在鋼架上完全放涼,把曲奇存放在密實盒中,室溫休息過夜待味道融合後才享用風味更佳。

Butter with a cool temperature would make the dough stiff. Stiff dough is hard to pipe unless you have a strong wrist. Cookies would also have ragged edges.
牛油溫度低時麵糊會偏硬,手力不夠時擠花會有困難,曲奇邊緣也會出現裂紋。

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