When wheat flour is mixed with water, gluten (a kind of protein) is formed. Excess gluten caused by continued mixing makes cakes and cookies to be rubbery and tough. This recipe is designed to minimize the formation of gluten by using the reverse (or two-stage) mixing method. Fats and dry ingredients are first combined. When the flour is coated by fats, water is blocked from interacting with the gluten protein. As a result, the dough can be rerolled three to four times without being toughened. Another reason why this recipe is so delicious is that brown butter (or beurre noisette in French) is used. Butter is cooked slowly until it reaches a golden brown color. The resulting butter has a unique nutty aroma. Simply use regular unsalted butter if you don’t have time to make this captivating stuff.
”做曲奇不能搓太多, 出了筋便不鬆脆!” 這是EC常常聽/看到的意見. 當麵粉內的蛋白質遇上水便會產生筋性(即“出筋”), 筋度越高時口感便越硬. 今天EC分享的是一個以reverse (或 two-stage) mixing 方法做成的曲奇. 乾性材料(粉類和糖)會先與牛油混合, 到最後才加入蛋液等濕性材料. 麵粉顆粒被牛油包着時便較難接觸到水份, 因此麵糰被揉搓至出筋的機會便大大降低, 用此方法搓成的麵糰經過三、四次整型及揉搓後仍能維持鬆脆. 這曲奇的另一個特色是使用自製的焦牛油(brown butter 或 beurre noisette), 焦牛油由淡牛油慢火煎至水份蒸發轉為啡色, 有一陣堅果香, 能為曲奇增添風味! 沒有時間做焦牛油則可用回普通的淡牛油.
Two-Colored Brown Butter Cookies
雙色焦牛油曲奇
Ingredients
For the Vanilla Dough
115 g brown butter
90 g granulated sugar
40 g ground almond
100 g all purpose flour
70 g cake and pastry flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
30 g cream cheese
1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla extract
For the Chocolate Dough
115 g brown butter
90 g granulated sugar
40 g ground almond
100 g all purpose flour
40 g cake and pastry flour
30 g unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
30 g cream cheese
1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla extract
材料
雲尼拿麵糰
焦牛油 115克
細砂糖 90克
杏仁粉 40克
中筋麵粉 100克
低筋麵粉 70克
泡打粉 1/2茶匙
鹽 1/4茶匙
忌廉芝士 30克
蛋黃 1個
雲尼拿香油 1茶匙
朱古力麵糰
焦牛油 115克
細砂糖 90克
杏仁粉 40克
中筋麵粉 100克
低筋麵粉 40克
無糖可可粉 30克
泡打粉 1/2茶匙
鹽 1/4茶匙
忌廉芝士 30克
蛋黃1個
雲尼拿香油 1 茶匙
Directons 做法
Make brown butter (butter weight will be reduced by about 20%)
Measure and cut 300 g of unsalted butter into chunks then place it in a pan. With medium-low heat, cook butter until it melts and bubbles. When the foam subsides and the sizzling sound starts to disappear, watch closely for the color change. When you start to smell the nutty aroma and see the butter turning light brown with specks of brown bits on the bottom of the pan, remove pan from heat and immediately pour the brown butter into a container to let cool. Cover the container with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the butter solidifies. Butter will burn and turn black easily so pay close attention to the color change.
做焦牛油 (做出來的焦牛油大約只有淡牛油的八成重量)：
淡牛油300 g切大塊, 放在小鍋以中小火煮至牛油融化、冒泡、發出啪啪聲音、聲音開始消失、顔色轉金黃並發出陣陣果仁香、顔色變深及有少量一點點啡色沈澱物後立刻離火, 將啡色的牛油倒在容器中放涼後蓋上保鮮紙放入雪櫃雪至凝固. 牛油由啡色變燶只是一瞬間的事, 煎煮過程要留心！
For the vanilla dough, mix softened cream cheese, egg yolk and vanilla extract until smooth and set aside. Sift dry ingredients (except sugar) together and set aside.
雲尼拿麵糰: 忌廉芝士放軟, 加蛋黃及雲尼拿油拌勻備用. 所有粉類(糖除外)混合過篩備用
In a mixing bowl, beat slightly softened brown butter (around 20C) and sugar until smooth. Add remaining dry ingredients all at once and mix until the mixture resembles wet sand. If your butter is too warm your mixture will be dough-like.
焦牛油放至少許軟身後(約20C)放在鋼盆中, 加入糖用打蛋器打滑(不用打發), 加入所有粉類慢速打至濕沙狀 (若牛油太軟混合物會黏成一團)
Stir in the cream cheese mixture to form a dough.
加入忌廉芝士混合物拌成麵糰
Divide the dough in half. For the heart cookies, roll out cookie dough in between two pieces of parchment paper (to prevent sticking) to 1/4 inch thick (I placed a pair of chopsticks under the ends of my rolling pin as a guide). For the second half of the dough, roll dough to 1/8 inch thick (for the striped cookies). Freeze the flattened discs, with parchment papers still on, for at least fifteen minutes until firm.
麵糰搓好後分半, 每份麵糰上下各放一張牛油紙防黏, 用麵棍將其中一份麵糰壓平至1/4吋厚做心心曲奇(EC用兩隻筷子托起麵棍). 另一半麵糰則壓至約1/8吋厚做間條曲奇. 將麵糰連牛油紙放進冰箱雪至少十五分鐘至硬.
For the chocolate dough, repeat steps (2) to (5) You have four flattened discs in your freezer now.
朱古力麵糰: 重覆步驟(2)至(5). 現在你的冰箱有壓扁麵糰四塊
For heart cookies: take out the two thicker black and white discs from the freezer. Peel off the parchment paper from the top. With a round cookie cutter, cut out the shapes. Cut little heart shape in the middle of each circle and exchange the hearts with the other dough. Put cut outs in fridge until ready to bake.
心心曲奇： 從冰箱取出較厚的兩塊黑白麵糰, 撕去面的牛油紙, 用圓形曲奇模印出形狀, 在每個圓形中央用心形印模印出小小的心形後取出, 將黑心和白心交換位置後把曲奇放回雪櫃定形
For striped cookies: cut the two thinner discs each into three to four strips about two inches wide. Using egg white or water as glue, stack strips of alternating color on top of each other to form a block. Wrap with plastic wrap and chill until firm. Unwrap and slice block into 1/4 inch thick slices.
間條曲奇： 將兩塊較薄的黑白麵糰各自用間尺和小刀切成三至四條約兩吋寬的長條, 將水或蛋白掃在長條上, 一黑一白隔着疊成長磚頭狀, 切走頭尾後用保鮮紙包好放回雪櫃定形. 雪實後橫切成約1/4吋厚片.
For marble cookies: collect dough scraps and roll them into two black logs and two white logs. Twist together a black and white one and gently roll it into a bigger log. Repeat with the remaining two logs. Twist the two bigger logs again and shape the dough into a cylinder. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill until firm. Unwrap and slice into 1/4 inch thick slices.
大理石曲奇：
將所有剩餘的黑白麵糰各自整理好, 分別搓成兩黑兩白的長條四條. 將一黑一白扭成一條再整形搓成圓條, 重覆多一次做成兩條扭紋條. 將兩條扭紋條扭成一粗條, 整形成圓柱體狀. 用保鮮紙包好放回雪櫃定形. 雪實後切成約1/4吋厚片
Place the cut outs on a parchment or silicon mat lined baking sheet. Preheat oven to 350F/180C then bake cookies for 9 to 12 minutes or until they turn golden around the edges (baking time depends on the size and thickness of the cookies). Let cookies sit a few minutes on the sheet before transferring to a cooling rack.
將曲奇放在已舖牛油紙或矽膠墊的烤盤內. 放入預熱350F/180C焗爐內焗約9-12分鐘(視乎曲奇厚薄大小)至曲奇邊緣金黃後取出, 待幾分鐘後將曲奇移到鐵架上放凉.
Recipe adapted from食譜參考並改良自 The Sugar Cookie Recipe by Cake Paper Party
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