Double Chocolate Chiffon Cake 雙重朱古力戚風蛋糕

I am running low on my favorite Ghirardelli unsweetened cocoa powder so I have to use it sparingly until I travel to the States next time (ya so sad that it is no longer available in Canada). I want a cake that doesn’t depend on too much cocoa powder but is still full of chocolaty flavor so I came up with this new chiffon cake recipe that utilized melted chocolate. Unlike my Chocolate Chiffon Cake recipe, this new version is a bit firmer and more crumbly in texture. It is still fluffy though, just not as “fluffy as cloud” and springy as compared to regular chiffon cakes. If I were to describe it, I would say this cake is as rich as Double Chocolate Brownie (but made with only a little bit of butter) and the texture is like a soft and moist Chocolate Butter Cake if served cold (but made without any baking powder). I said “cold” as the temperature of the cake affects the texture of cake (more on this later). Speaking of butter, I did play around with both butter and grapeseed oil and I prefer using butter for this recipe. One issue I encountered while developing this recipe was the consistency of the yolk batter. I tried using more chocolate to intensify the chocolate flavor but that made my yolk batter very thick, so thick that it formed lumps when being incorporated into the meringue and then deflated it. I also discovered that the yolk batter consistency was sensitive to temperature change as both chocolate and butter would start to thicken up when temperature dropped . In conclusion, the chocolate ganache must be lukewarm during mixing in order to keep the yolk batter in the perfect consistency to be incorporated into the meringue. I have included pictures at the end of this post to show you how the yolk batter consistency affected the overall height of my cakes.
EC最喜歡的Ghirardelli無糖可可粉快用光了，要待下次去美國時才可以購買(對呀，很可惜現在已不能在加拿大找到這款可可粉了) 。為了節省使用可可粉但又不失朱古力味，EC便研究了這個加入朱古力溶液的朱古力戚風蛋糕食譜。相比起舊有的只使用無糖可可粉的朱古力戚風蛋糕，此蛋糕口感較紮實，而且碎屑也較多，可是質地卻不忘柔軟，就是沒有一般的戚風蛋糕那種“雲朵般輕柔軟熟”和充滿彈性而已。若要EC具體描述一下蛋糕，那麼最貼切的形容就是蛋糕味道像雙重朱古力布朗尼般濃郁，凍吃的話質地則像很鬆軟的朱古力牛油蛋糕，重點是此蛋糕很少牛油又沒有任何泡打粉啊！EC提及”凍吃“的原因是蛋糕在不同溫度下有不同的質感(這方面容後再談)。說起牛油，EC用過牛油和液體油作實驗，個人比較喜歡用牛油做的製成品。而製作這個蛋糕時亦遇到了蛋黃糊濃稠度的問題。EC曾嘗試多加朱古力增強朱古力口味，可是此舉導致蛋黃糊變得非常杰難以跟蛋白霜混合，蛋糕糊出現結塊情況之餘蛋白霜也消泡了不少！此外EC亦察覺溫度也會影響蛋黃糊的質地，畢竟溫度下降朱古力和牛油便開始變杰甚至凝固啊。總括來說就是必需加入微暖的朱古力漿才能保持蛋黃糊的流動性，以便與蛋白霜混合。EC在文章末段附上相片，大家看過後便可更清楚看到蛋黃糊的稠度如何影響蛋糕製成品的高度。

If you have been reading my chiffon cake recipes, I always prepare my yolk batter first before whipping my meringue. But this time I switched the order so my yolk batter won’t set up too soon. Another thing that is different from my typical chiffon cake recipes is the stage to which I whip my meringue. Chocolate has a tendency to deflate the meringue. To compensate for this I whip my meringue a little bit stiffer than what I usually would do, which is to beat the meringue until it holds up straight instead of a curvy tip. This is the same approach I used when I made my Chocolate Chiffon Cupcakes and Chocolate Banana Chiffon Cake.
倘若大家有留意EC其他的戚風蛋糕食譜便不難發現EC一般是先做蛋黃糊，之後才開始打發蛋白霜的，然而這次EC把次序調轉了！先打發蛋白霜後做蛋黃糊更能有效地降低蛋黃糊變杰的狀況。除此之外，蛋白霜也比平時做戚風蛋糕時打發得硬一點(一般是小彎勾現在是長尖角)，這是為了解決朱古力傾向令蛋白霜消泡的問題，EC在朱古力香蕉戚風蛋糕和朱古力杯子蛋糕也用到這樣的方法協助蛋糕爬升。

I mentioned earlier in this post that the texture of cake varies according to its serving temperature. I serve them in different ways as my family members, well…mostly my kids, have different preferences (a nice way of saying they are picky). I always store my chiffon cake in the fridge and consume the next day for a better flavor. For a firmer texture, take cake out from the fridge and serve as is. The cake will taste like a fluffy and not-too-sweet version of the Sara Lee chocolate pound cake. If you don’t like to eat it cold, leave cake at room temperature for about 10 to 15 minutes for a soft cake. Heat cake in the microwave oven for around 10 seconds for a cake that is warm, soft and moist. For a slightly crunchy crust with a soft interior, place cake in the toaster oven and warm as if making a toast. For a thick and super crunchy crust all around the sides, place previously frozen cake slices in an air fryer and bake at 400ºF/200ºC for 8 to 10 minutes. If you have time to make this cake, don’t forget to tell me how you like to enjoy it!
文章開始時提及過蛋糕在不同溫度下進食有不同口感，EC的家人–尤其是孩子，對蛋糕有不同喜好(說實話就是挑剔)，因此EC要按其喜好準備不同吃法。蛋糕焗好後EC一般會把蛋糕放在食物盒中放雪櫃保存，第二天讓味道融合後才食用。若喜歡紮實口感的便可從雪櫃取出蛋糕直接食用，這樣吃的時候蛋糕會有點像鬆軟而又不太甜的朱古力味莎莉蛋糕。 不愛凍吃的可把蛋糕放在室溫中10至15分鐘讓蛋糕回軟。愛暖暖吃的話EC會直接取出放在微波爐加熱十秒左右，這樣吃蛋糕非常濕潤柔軟！想要脆脆的外皮但內裏柔軟的話便可放入多士焗爐中以烘麵包的形式把蛋糕烘脆。若要蛋糕整體都有一層超脆超厚外皮的話更可預先把蛋糕件放在冰格保存冷凍，到想吃的時候便用氣炸鍋把蛋糕件400ºF/200ºC氣炸8至10分鐘。 若大家有時間製作此蛋糕，不要忘記告訴EC大家最愛的食法啊！

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Double Chocolate Chiffon Cake
雙重朱古力戚風蛋糕

For 17 cm extra tall or 7” tube pan
17cm加高或7”戚風模份量

Ingredients

100 g bittersweet chocolate (min 52% cacao, I use couverture chocolate)
80 g milk
30 g butter, unsalted
50 g cake and pastry flour
15 g unsweetened cocoa powder
A pinch of salt
4 egg yolks, large
4 egg whites, large
1/2 tsp white vinegar or lemon juice (I use Korean apple vinegar)
50 g granulated sugar (I use organic sugar)
Notes: The eggs I use are about 50 g each without shells.

材料

苦甜朱古力(至少52%濃度，EC用調溫朱古力) 100克
牛奶 80克
無鹽牛油 30克
低筋麵粉 50克
無糖可可粉 15克
鹽 少許
大蛋蛋黃 4個
大蛋蛋白 4個
白醋或檸檬汁(EC用韓國蘋果醋) 1/2茶匙
細砂糖(EC用有機蔗糖) 50克
註：EC用的大蛋每隻淨重約50克

Directions 做法

Preheat oven to 325ºF/160ºC.
焗爐預熱325ºF/160ºC。

Place chocolate, milk and butter in a large bowl and heat over a pot of simmering water (or heat in the microwave with medium powder) until chocolate is melted. Stir until smooth to make a ganache. Keep the mixture slightly warm and set aside.
朱古力，牛奶和牛油放大碗隔水加熱或用微波爐中火加熱至朱古力融化，攪拌成順滑朱古力漿後保持微暖備用。

With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip egg whites and vinegar (to stabilize the meringue) with medium-high speed until very foamy. Gradually add sugar in batches and continue beating with medium speed until soft peaks. Beat at medium-low speed until meringue is glossy and reaches firm peaks. When you lift up the whisk, the peak will hold its shape with a pointy tip that doesn’t flop easily.
用電動打蛋器或座枱式攪拌器(使用打蛋器配件)將蛋白和醋(可令蛋白霜更穩定)中高速打至蛋白組織變細密，分次加糖中速打至軟勾狀，之後轉低速打至蛋白霜有光澤及企身，拉起時蛋白霜末端呈不易下垂的長尖角。

Sift flour, cocoa powder and salt into a mixing bowl. Make a well in the center then pour in the egg yolks and lukewarm chocolate ganache. Whisk gently until incorporated.
低筋麵粉，可可粉和鹽混合過篩放入鋼盆中，中開一穴後倒入蛋黃和微暖的朱古力漿，用蛋拂輕手攪拌均勻成蛋黃糊。

Scoop about one third of the meringue into the yolk batter and fold with a whisk to lighten. Then scrape this back into the bowl of meringue. Fold gently and thoroughly (so you don’t deflate the meringue) with a spatula until homogeneous.
將三分一蛋白霜混入蛋黃糊中用蛋拂以切拌方法充份拌勻，再倒回蛋白霜鋼盆中輕手用膠刮以切拌方法混合至麵糊成均一顔色，盡量輕手並快手完成混合以免蛋白霜消泡。

Pour batter into an unprepared tube pan. Tap pan against the kitchen countertop several times to get rid of any large air bubbles. Smooth top with an offset spatula.
將麵糊倒入戚風模中(模內不用抹油掃粉)，將烤模往枱上輕敲幾下敲出較大的氣泡後抹平表面。

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until a wooden skewer inserted in the center of cake comes out clean. The cake is ready after it has reached its maximum height and begun to sink slightly. Every oven is different so adjust baking time accordingly. Drop cake pan on the kitchen countertop at a distance upon removal from the oven. This will release any gas trapped in the cake cells and minimize shrinkage. Invert pan on a wire rack to cool completely before unmolding. Serve cake the next day for best flavor.
入爐焗35至40分鐘或至竹籤插入蛋糕中心取出後不沾麵糊，蛋糕爬升至最高點並開始回落後取出，不同焗爐可能要不同時間，請自行調節，將蛋糕連烤模往枱上捽一下將困於蛋糕內的空氣震破避免蛋糕回縮，在鋼架上倒扣放涼後可脫模，第二天才食用風味更佳。

Both cakes were made with the same recipe but the picture on the left was made with chocolate ganache that wasn’t warm enough. The cake was obviously shorter when the yolk batter was too thick.
都是相同的食譜，但左邊的蛋糕沒有使用溫暖的朱古力醬。蛋糕整體高度明顯受過杰的蛋黃糊影響。

I baked this cake in my 7” Wilton chiffon cake pan.
這是用Wilton 7”戚風模製造的蛋糕。

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