Viennese Sablés 維也納曲奇(唧花牛油曲奇)

I have been experimenting with cookie recently. It is just a simple cookie recipe that is shaped by piping but I’ve spent two weeks to compare various ingredients in order to find out what texture I prefer most.
EC這陣子都在研究曲奇。其實這只是材料及做法簡單不過的擠花牛油曲奇,但EC花了兩星期做實驗比較材料以便尋找自己最喜歡的口感。

The ingredients being used is extremely important in creating the cookie that you wish for. Preference is truly a personal matter. Somebody may prefer their cookies crispy while others like theirs crumbly and melt-in-tge-mouth. Once you understand how ingredients behaves differently you could always tweak the recipe to create the texture that you want. I like to use all-purpose flour for my cookies as its higher protein level strengthens the dough structure, creating a piped pattern that is sturdier and less likely to spread or disappear upon baking. Cake flour makes cookie crumbly and melt-in-your-mouth. In terms of eggs, many recipes simply call for whole eggs. But egg whites result in crunchier cookies while egg yolks add richness (and also fats of course) and tenderness. For butter, I’ve tested with salted, unsalted, and well as European-style cultured butter. Unsalted butter allows you to control over the saltiness whereas salted butter yields a salty-sweet flavor. European-style butter contains less water so cookies are more buttery. Also because the butter is cultured it leaves a slight tangy aftertaste. I don’t have a preference in butter. As long as the butter is of high quality, your cookies will be buttery and delicious.
不同材料對曲奇成品有直接影響,因此選料絕對是關鍵。口味是很個人化的,有些人喜歡脆脆的曲奇,有些人則喜歡入口即化的曲奇。只要明白每種材料的功效便可按自己的口味和喜好修改食譜。先說麵粉,EC較喜歡用中筋麵粉做曲奇,筋度高些可加強曲奇結構,花紋會較挺身和清晰。低筋麵粉的筋度較低,曲奇口感會較鬆散,入口很快便化開。很多曲奇食譜使用全蛋液,但其實蛋白做的曲奇口感帶點硬脆,而蛋黄因為多了脂肪,曲奇味道會更濃,口感特別酥鬆。至於牛油方面,無鹽、含鹽及歐式發酵牛油EC也試過了,無鹽牛油的好處是可自行調節鹽量,含鹽牛油為曲奇多添了咸香,而歐式發酵牛油水份少奶香味濃,吃後有微酸的餘味。EC沒有特別偏好,因為只要是使用高品質的牛油,曲奇便很好吃。

My cookie recipe is adapted from my friend Bonnie and the Sable Viennois recipe by the world-renowned baker Pierre Hermé. Cookie batter tends to be firmer and is harder to pipe as the room temperature is lower during winter time. The piped out cookie would also have ragged edges. My tip for you is to start off with butter that is very, very soft. After mixing with sugar, the mixture should have a consistency similar to toothpaste. This optimal texture allows the flour to be blended and absorbed effectively, resulting in a soft batter that can easily be piped. If you are in a hurry you could soften the butter in the microwave on the lowest power in 10 seconds intervals. Another way to soften butter quickly is to immerse the bottom part of your mixing bowl in warm water for a short period of time, like 30 seconds, during mixing. For evenly-sized cookies, do not fill the pastry bag too full as you will need strong arms to apply even pressure. If you have trouble piping the batter either because it is too stiff or you don’t have strong arms, warm the batter using a hair dryer only if you are using a reusable piping bag (canvas or silicone material). If disposable piping bag is used, wrap it with a warm towel as the heat from the dryer may melt the plastic.
食譜份量及做法參考了朋友Bonnie的擠花牛油曲奇及甜品大師Pierre Hermé的維也納曲奇(Sable Viennois)食譜。因為冬天室內氣溫較低,當牛油回溫不夠時麵糊便不夠柔軟,擠花十分困難,麵糊擠出來後邊緣更是滿佈裂紋。EC的心得是,牛油要放得十分十分軟,與糖混合後變成像牙膏狀的樣子為最佳,這種軟度十分容易與麵粉混合,麵糊軟軟的擠花時才輕鬆不費力。心急沒時間等待的話可用微波爐以最低火十秒一次的加熱軟化牛油。另外打發牛油時也可把鋼盆底部浸在暖水中半分鐘使其軟化。此外,把曲奇麵糊放進擠花袋時不要填得太滿,否則要花很大的氣力才能擠出大小均勻的曲奇。倘若擠花途中才發覺麵糊很硬而手力又不夠,只要用風筒往擠花袋(只限布或矽膠物料)吹一會兒便可軟化麵糊,使用一次性擠花袋的請用暖毛巾包裹擠花袋,以免熱風令塑膠溶化。


Viennese Sablés
維也納曲奇(唧花牛油曲奇)

Makes 22 to 25
22至25塊份量

Ingredients

125 g unsalted butter, very soft
150 g all-purpose flour, sifted
40 g icing sugar, sifted
1/4 tsp sea salt or pink Himalayan salt
20 g egg white
1/2 tsp vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract

材料

無鹽牛油 (室溫回軟) 125克
中筋麵粉(過篩) 150克
糖霜(過篩) 40克
海鹽或粉紅岩鹽 1/4茶匙
蛋白 20克
雲尼拿醬或純雲尼拿香油 1/2茶匙

 

Directions 做法

Preheat oven to 325℉/160℃. Line baking sheet with parchment paper.
焗爐預熱至325℉/160℃,焗盆放牛油紙備用。

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or with an electric mixer, beat butter on low speed until smooth. Add icing sugar and salt then beat on low speed until blended (there is no need to beat air into the dough so do not beat mixture to the light and fluffy stage).
牛油放入攪拌盆中,以電動打蛋器或座枱式攪拌器(使用攪拌槳配件)低速把牛油打滑,加入糖霜及鹽低速拌勻,無須打進空氣至牛油發白及蓬鬆,混合均勻即可。

Add egg white in two additions and beat until fully Incorporated. Scrape down the side of the bowl with a spatula then beat in the vanilla.
分兩次加入蛋白拌至與牛油完全融合,以刮刀清理盆邊後加入雲尼拿醬拌勻。

Fold in the flour in two batches with a spatula. Stop mixing once a soft dough is formed. Do not over-mix.
分兩次加入麵粉,用刮刀以切拌手法拌至無粉粒成軟麵糰即可,不要過度攪拌。

Transfer batter into a piping bag fitted with an open-star tip (I used Wilton 1M star tip) then eliminate any trapped air bubbles. Pipe batter onto the baking sheet. I made a rosette by piping a dollop then draw a circle as if writing the letter e.
把麵糊放進已備星形花嘴的擠花袋中(EC用Wilton的1M花嘴),擠出袋中氣泡,在焗盆上擠出曲奇麵糊,EC的做法是先從中間開始擠出一點,然後好像寫e字般畫一個圈做成玫瑰花形。

Bake for 15 to 18 minutes or until the cookies are golden brown around the edges. Cool completely on a cooling rack.
把焗盆放入焗爐15至18分鐘或至曲奇邊緣呈金黃色後可取出,在鋼架上完全放涼。

Cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for 2 weeks. For longer storage, keep in freezer for up to 2 months. Without thawing, bake at 300℉/150℃ for 5 to 8 minutes then cool completely before serving.
曲奇放密封盒中室溫可存放兩星期,放在冰箱則可保存約兩個月, 直接從冰箱取出後於300℉/150℃預熱焗爐焗五至八分鐘,完放涼後即可食用。

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