Cakes

Chocolate Genoise

I am sharing with you my new method of making genoise today. Traditionally, the whole eggs and sugar have to be heated over warm water to roughly 40°C/104℉ before whipping. This new way that I adapted from CookPad doesn’t require any heating at all! Let me call it the “separated whole egg-foam method” for now. For this approach, the egg whites are first whipped into a meringue before the yolks are added and then whipped together briefy. This makes the whole beating process a lot faster and easier.
今天將分享EC新嘗試的海綿蛋糕(Genoise)做法,傳統的做法需將全蛋和糖坐暖水至大約40℃/104℉才開始打發,但EC在Cookpad偷師學懂的方法則完全不用加熱。EC暫且稱此為”分蛋式全蛋法吧“!蛋白首先會與糖打發成蛋白霜,然後才加入蛋黃繼續打發,整個打發過程比全蛋法簡單快捷得多。

For the chocolate genoise recipe that I am sharing below, you may notice that the cocoa powder is mixed with hot butter (instead of the flour) and is added at the very last stage. There are two advantages for doing so. First, blooming cocoa powder with hot liquid (butter in this case) intensifies the cocoa powder flavor. Second, the fats in the cocoa powder tends to deflate the egg foam quickly. If cocoa powder is added with the flour, by the time the butter gets incorporated, you may notice that your batter has lost some volume. I’ve done experiments last week in which I baked three cakes with this recipe. One cake was with the cocoa powder sifted with the flour and the other two with the cocoa powder mixed with butter. The former one was about 1/4 inch shorter. See the comparison at the end of this blog post.
以下分享的朱古力海綿蛋糕配方,EC沒有把可可粉與麵粉混合而是與溫熱的牛油混合,到最後才加入麵糊中。這樣做有兩個好處,第一,把熱的液體(即牛油)與可可粉混合能提升可可粉味道,第二,可可粉的油脂是消泡能手,若與麵粉共同篩入麵糊中攪拌,待最後加入牛油時麵糊大概已消泡了不少。EC上星期以同一配方做過實驗,結果發現把可可粉與麵粉一同篩入麵糊的蛋糕比把可可粉混入牛油最後加入的矮約四份一寸。

Another tips worth mentioning is the use of invert sugar which makes the cake so much moister and softer. You can tell the difference especially after the cake is chilled. I have previously followed Chef Eddy Van Damme’s recipe and prepared a small batch of invert sugar. I kept it in a sterilized glass jar and store it in my refrigerator. If you do not plan to make your own, light corn syrup and honey may be used as well.
EC的另一個秘訣是使用轉化糖漿,轉化糖漿能保持蛋糕濕潤及柔軟度,蛋糕(尤其是冷藏過後)不會變得乾乾的。EC曾依照Eddy Van Damme的配方自製轉化糖漿,煮了少量後放入己消毒的玻璃樽內放雪櫃保存。若不想花時間煮轉化糖漿,粟膠或蜜糖亦有相同的功效!

Now, let me introduce to you my chocolate genoise made with the “separated whole egg-foam method”.
以下是EC為大家介紹的“分蛋式全蛋法“朱古力海綿蛋糕配方。


 

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Chocolate Genoise 朱古力海綿蛋糕

Makes two 6 by 1.25 inches round cakes
兩個6×1.25寸圓形蛋糕份量

Ingredients

80 g cake and pastry flour
20 g Dutch-process cocoa powder
1/16 salt
3 large eggs, separated
40 g granulated sugar
2 Tbsp invert sugar or light corn syrup
30 g unsalted butter, melted and hot
50 g warm milk
1/3 tsp cream of tartar

Notes: The eggs I use are about 50 g each without shells.

材料

低筋麵粉 80克
鹼化(Dutch-process)可可粉 20克
鹽 1/16茶匙
大蛋,分開蛋白和蛋黃 3個
細砂糖 40克
轉化糖漿(可用粟膠代替) 2湯匙
暖牛奶 50克
熱無鹽牛油溶液 30克
他他粉 1/3茶匙

註:EC用的大蛋每隻淨重約50克

Directions 做法

Preheat oven to 325ºF/170ºC. Separate the egg whites and egg yolks. Line bottom of two 6″ round pans with parchment paper rounds. Double sift together the flour and salt. Set aside.
焗爐預熱325ºF/170ºC,分開蛋白和蛋黃,兩個六寸圓模底部放上牛油紙,麵粉及鹽混合過篩兩次備用。

Place cocoa powder and butter in a large bowl and microwave in 15 second interval until butter is hot. Stir until smooth. Add in the warm milk and stir until homogeneous. Set aside while keeping mixture warm.
可可粉及牛油放大碗放微波爐叮至牛油熱後拌至順滑(EC每隔十五秒停一次察看牛油狀況),加入暖牛奶攪拌均勻,保暖備用。

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In a clean mixing bowl, whip egg whites with a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or a hand mixer until foamy. Add cream of tartar (to stabilize the meringue) and continue beating until soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar in batches and continue beating until glossy and firm peaks form.
取清潔的鋼盆放入蛋白,用坐枱式攪拌器(使用打蛋器配件)或電動打蛋器將蛋白打至起泡,加入他他粉繼續打至軟勾狀,分次加入糖打至企身和有光澤。

Add in the yolks and syrup and beat with medium speed for about one minute or until incorporated. The mixture will be very creamy, fluffy and hold soft peaks while you lift the whisk up.
加入蛋黃和糖漿,轉用中速打大約一分鐘至稠身,蛋漿此時變得順滑蓬鬆及呈軟勾狀。

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Sift in the flour mixture in three batches and fold gently with a whisk and then a spatula until smooth and with no lumps.  I usually fold with a whisk during the first and second additions.  The wires of the whisk cut into the flour quicker and more efficiently.  When I add my flour the last time I start folding with a spatula.  A spatula can scrape the edge and bottom of the mixing bowl cleanly and ensure an even incorporation.
粉類分三次篩入拌匀,用蛋拂及膠刮以切拌手法拌至麵糊順滑及無粉粒,EC頭兩次加麵粉時一般用蛋拂切拌,蛋拂的鋼線能快速並有效地切入麵粉,最後一次加麵粉時EC則轉用膠刮,膠刮可將盆邊和盆底的麵糊刮乾淨,並可均勻地將麵糊徹底混合。

Take a big scoop out of the batter and fold into the warm butter-cocoa powder mixture to lighten it (this will prevent the butter mixture from sinking to the bottom of batter). Add this back into the batter then fold gently until homogeneous.
取一大舀麵糊與可可粉牛油混合物拌匀(這方法可調節可可粉牛油混合物稠度並減少牛油沉底問題),倒回麵糊中用膠刮輕手以切拌方法混合至顔色均一。

Divide batter evenly into pans and smooth top with a spatula. Tap cake pans against the kitchen counter several times to get rid of any large air bubbles. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the cake springs back to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center of cake comes out clean. Every oven is different so adjust baking time accordingly. Drop cake pans on the kitchen counter at a distance upon removal from the oven to release any gas trapped in the cake cells and minimize shrinkage. Cool on a wire rack for ten minutes before unmolding. Cool completely before leveling the top and slicing.
將麵糊平均分配倒入模中,將模往枱上輕敲幾下敲出較大的氣泡,用曲柄抹刀抹平表面,入爐焗至蛋糕表面有彈性及竹籤插入蛋糕中央取出不沾麵糊 (約25-30分鐘,請自行調整時間),取出轉移到鋼架放涼十分鐘後可脫模,完全放涼後可用刀切去頂部突出部份並按需要切片使用。

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This video (in Cantonese) shows how I unmold my cake without using any tools.
以下短片是EC的模徒手脫模方法。

 

My experiment results.
Top: cocoa powder was sifted with flour then folded in the batter and followed by melted butter. Cake was slightly over 1″ tall
Middle: cocoa powder was mixed with hot butter and fold in at the end. Cake was baked at 350℉/180℃. It rose a bit higher but was domed and cracked on top.
Bottom: cocoa powder was mixed with hot butter and temperature lowered to 325℉/170℃. Cake rose pretty flat, had no cracks and measured 1.25″ tall.
蛋糕實驗結果,上:可可粉與麵粉混合拌入麵糊後才加牛油溶液,蛋糕高度僅僅過一寸。
中:可可粉與熱牛油混合後最後加入麵糊,350℉/180℃焗,蛋糕明顯長高了,但中央突出並爆面。
下:可可粉與熱牛油混合,爐溫降至325℉/170℃,蛋糕平均上升,表面平滑,高度約1.25寸。
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