Honey Madeleines 蜂蜜瑪德蓮

Madeleines are famous French little cakes (some refer them as cookies) with a shell-like shape and characteristic dome on the back. These buttery cakes, when freshly baked, are browned crispy on the outside yet soft and spongy on the inside. This time I’ve included some trehalose that is about half the sweetness of sucrose. This reduces the overall sweetness without compromising the moisture level (if you reduce the amount of sugar drastically your madeleines will end up being pretty dry). Madeleines are dangerously easy to make and all you need is a large mixing bowl, a whisk and/or spatula and, of course, a scallop-shaped madeleine pan. To successfully create madeleines with fine texture and those classic, distinctive bumps on the back, you will need to be patient and rest the batter in the refrigerator overnight and to freeze the prepared pan for at least 20 minutes prior to baking. In my other post, Maple Orange Madeleines, I tested the batter that was rested for 2, 4 and 18 hours. Feel free to take a look at my results if you want to know how the shape of the madeleines was affected.
瑪德蓮是法國著名的小點心,貝殼形的小蛋糕(也有人將之歸類為餅乾)中央擁有獨特的小肚子,剛出爐的蛋糕表面金黄酥脆,而內裡則組織細密充滿牛油香。EC今次加入了少量只有砂糖約一半甜度的海藻糖,降低整體甜度同時也不會影響蛋糕濕潤度(若只大幅度減掉砂糖用量是會令瑪德蓮口感變得乾巴巴的)。瑪德蓮做法超級簡單,只要用上鋼盆、蛋拂和刮刀,除此之外也要購買一個瑪德蓮模具。須說做法容易,但要做到質地細緻,和那像中國元寶般中央突起的瑪德蓮特色小肚子就要比較有點耐性了。EC的小心得就是麵糊做好後要讓其在雪櫃中熟成一晚隔日才使用,另外亦最好把瑪德蓮模具預先放冰格冷凍至少20分鐘。在另一篇網誌楓糖香橙瑪德蓮中,EC曾比較過熟成2、4和18小時的麵糊,若有興趣知道熟成時間如何影響瑪德蓮外貌的話也可以重看。

Madeleines will keep for two to three days in an airtight container at room temperature and the skin will start to soften or even get sticky over time. To regain the crispy texture you will need to reheat them in a toaster oven at 300℉/150℃ for about 5 minutes.
瑪德蓮放在密實盒中可常溫保存兩至三日,不即日吃的話表皮會慢慢開始軟化甚至變得有點黏手。只要把瑪德蓮放在多士焗爐中以300℉/150℃焗五分鐘左右,外皮便可變回酥脆。


Honey Madeleines
蜂蜜瑪德蓮

Makes 6 (60-ml capacity) or 18 (20-ml capacity)
60毫升容量瑪德蓮模具6個或20毫升容量瑪德蓮模具18個

Ingredients

100 g cake and pastry flour, plus extra for preparing pan
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/8 tsp salt
90 g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for preparing pan
2 large eggs
45 g granulated sugar (I used organic cane sugar)
15 g trehalose
1 Tbsp (20 g) honey
Notes: The eggs I use are about 55 g each without shells.

材料

低筋麵粉 100克(另加少量塗模用)
泡打粉 1/2茶匙
鹽 1/8茶匙
無鹽牛油溶液 90克(另加少量塗模用)
大蛋 2個
細砂糖(EC用有機蔗糖) 45克
海藻糖 15克
蜜糖 1湯匙(約20克)
註:EC用的大蛋每隻淨重約55克

Directions 做法

In a large bowl sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Melt butter in the microwave or over a pot of hot water and keep warm. Set aside.
麵粉、泡打粉及鹽混合過篩放大碗中,牛油以微波爐或隔熱水加熱至融化後保暖,備用。

In a large mixing bowl, whisk eggs, sugar, trehalose and honey until blended.
蛋、糖、海藻糖和蜜糖放在鋼盆中,用蛋拂輕輕打匀。

Whisk in flour mixture in two batches until incorporated.
分兩次篩入乾粉類,以蛋拂攪拌至無粉粒。

Stir in warm butter in two additions until thoroughly combined. Batter will be smooth and shiny. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a spatula. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
*An overnight resting time helps the ingredients to blend in together and creates madeleines with a finer texture and dryer exterior. It also helps to produce the classic bumps on the back that look like a Chinese gold ingot.
暖牛油溶液分兩次倒入,攪拌均勻成順滑帶光澤之麵糊,以膠刮清理盆邊和盆底,用保鮮紙蓋好冷藏過夜。
*冷藏過夜熟成的麵糊能使材料更融合亦較易焗出瑪德蓮的特色像元寳般邊緣較平而中央突出的小肚子,瑪德蓮內部氣孔會較細密,質地也較乾爽

At least 20 minutes before baking, lightly grease and flour the madeleine pan then tap off excess flour. Keep pan in the freezer until ready to use.
烘焙前把牛油溶液輕掃在瑪德蓮模內並撒上一層薄麵粉,拍走多餘麵粉後放在冰格冷凍至少二十分鐘。

Preheat oven to 400℉/200℃ with a large baking tray in it 15 minutes before baking. Gently stir the batter with a spatula to loosen. Remove the pan from the freezer and using either a spoon or piping bag, fill each cavity with chilled batter to about three quarters full. Tap the pan against the countertop several times to get rid of large bubbles. Place pan on the baking tray and bake for 5 minutes. Quickly open the oven door to release hot air then close it again. Reduce temperature to 350℉/180℃ and continue baking until the madeleines are golden brown at the edges and spring back when lightly pressed in the centers, about 7 more minutes for small madeleines and 12 more minutes for large ones. Please adjust oven temperature and baking time according to the pan size and desired color.
*In general, more golden brown color means a crispier exterior. If you prefer madeleines that are only lightly golden, reduce oven temperature by 25ºF/15ºC and bake 2 to 3 minutes longer.

焗爐中層放一個大焗盆,400℉/200℃預熱15分鐘,從冰格取出瑪德蓮模,先用膠刮翻動一下麵糊再次攪勻,用湯匙或唧袋把凍的麵糊逐一倒進模中至3/4滿模,往枱上輕敲幾下移除氣泡後放在焗爐烤盆上,焗5分鐘後打開焗爐門散一散熱氣後關門,把爐溫降低到350ºF/180ºC焗至瑪德蓮邊緣金黃色及用手指輕按瑪德蓮中央凸起的地方會回彈,小瑪德蓮約多焗7分鐘,大的約12分鐘,請依模具大小和上色情況自行調教火力及時間。
*烤色越深和金黃瑪德蓮表面越酥脆,若只要淺色瑪德蓮可把爐溫下調25ºF/15ºC,入爐時間增長2至3分鐘

Let madeleines cool in the pan for 2 minutes before inverting onto a wire rack to cool. Serve warm after the exterior has set firm.
出爐2分鐘後脫模,把瑪德蓮反扣在鋼架上稍放涼,待外皮開始變硬後趁暖吃。

A thermal shock, i.e. a cold pan and cold batter plus a hot oven, is crucial to the formation of the distinctive hump.
溫度衝擊,即冷模具,冷麵糊加上熱的焗爐,是做成瑪德蓮特色小肚臍的必要因素之一。

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