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Earl Grey Orange Macarons (Swiss Method)

I am sharing with you today a macaron recipe that is prepared with a less known method — the Swiss meringue method. To make a Swiss meringue, egg whites and sugar are placed together in a mixing bowl and then warmed over a double boiler until sugar is dissolved. The mixture is then whipped at high speed until meringue is glossy and firm. I usually use this for my Swiss Meringue Buttercream and this time I decided to make macarons out of it.
EC今天享的馬卡龍採用較少人用的瑞士蛋白霜(Swiss meringue)做法,瑞士蛋白霜以隔水加熱的方法製成,首先把蛋白和砂糖同放鋼盆中,隔水加熱至砂糖溶化後便可離火,再以高速打發成光亮挺身的蛋白霜。EC一般利用瑞士蛋白霜製作瑞士蛋白奶油霜,這次則做馬卡龍。

I’ve made macarons with French and Italian meringue before. From my experience, French macaron is straightforward but the meringue is not stable. Macaron batter tends to be over mixed quite easily. The Italian method produces very consistent and satisfying result; however, the addition of boiling hot syrup makes things quite difficult for baking in small batches (plus I found it too sweet to my liking). With reference to Pierre Hermé’s macaron recipe I prepared mine with Swiss meringue instead. I tried making Swiss meringue with all the egg whites (as in the French method) as well as only half of them (the other half was mixed with the almond sugar mixture, or tpt, as in the Italian method). The macaronage was a nightmare for the former method. With all egg whites turned into meringue, after adding the almond-sugar mixture the batter would become super thick in the beginning. I guess Swiss and Italian meringue were both too stable so it took a longer time to deflate during the folding. By the time I could finally fold the mixture to the right consistency my arms were really, really sore! On the other hand, the folding process was a lot more smoother and less effort was required while half of the egg whites was still in its liquid state. I found that sugar content made a difference in the texture of the meringue. My Swiss meringue had 2 parts of sugar at first and it turned out to be very dense and gooey. Later I experimented with 1 and 1.5 parts of sugar and the 1.5 one gave better result.
EC曾做法式及義式馬卡龍,法式馬卡龍雖然做法簡單,蛋白霜卻不穩定,一不小心麵糊便混合過度了。義式蛋白霜十分穩定, 可是熬煮糖漿不太適用於少量製作(而且義式馬卡龍超甜!)。以往曾使用Pierre Hermé的義式馬卡龍食譜,因此也參考了配方換成瑞士式。EC試驗了打發所有蛋白(法式做法)及一半蛋白(即像義式做法般一半蛋白做成蛋白霜,餘下的混入TPT 或杏仁糖粉混合物),前者的壓拌過程十分痛苦!或許瑞士及義式蛋白霜太穩定太不容易消泡了,加進粉類後麵糊初時十分濃稠,EC花了不少氣力才能壓拌混合至緞帶狀。相反,當一半蛋白是蛋白霜,另一半沒打發仍呈液態的話,壓拌混合麵糊過程相對上較輕鬆順利。另外,不同糖量的蛋白霜在質感上也有别,EC初試時砂糖與蛋白比例為2比1,蛋白霜十分沉重很黏稠,後來也試驗過1.5及1倍糖量,前者效果較理想。

As for the finished macaron shells, I found the Swiss method yielded shinier surface and a more compact, chewier texture than the French method. The shell membrane was thicker and the feet was less fluted (more like a up and down shape instead of spreading sideways). Another interesting finding was that it took a longer mature time in the fridge. With the same ganache filling, my French macarons typically required only an overnight resting whereas my Swiss ones needed one full day to be softened. I bet this was due to the thicker, stronger membrane and more compact interior.
馬卡龍外殼方面,瑞士做法比法式有光澤,口感厚實帶煙韌,裙腳較內歛像義式般往上爬(法式裙腳有點向外伸展)。也許瑞土馬卡龍外皮比法式厚身和組織細密吧,EC發覺夾餡要多些時間才被完全吸收令馬卡龍變軟。以同一款黑朱古力醬作餡,法式只要休息過夜已變軟,瑞士式則要一整天。

My last comment regarding Swiss meringue is on the size of the mixing bowl. The Swiss meringue is made with only one egg white here (by the way I didn’t age my egg white). It will be more effective to use a mixing bowl with a narrow bottom. Tilting the mixing bowl to gather the egg white during whipping also facilitates incorporation of air. At the end of the post I will show you how I removed the macaron shells from the baking paper all at once with one simple step. Learning this trick will save you so much time indeed so read my post till the end!
瑞士蛋白霜另一製作要點與攪拌盆大小有關。配方中蛋白霜部份大慨只是一個蛋白的份量(EC使用新鮮蛋白),因此適宜使用底部面積較小的鋼盆,而打發時傾斜鋼盆集中蛋白也能增加接觸面有助打進空氣。文章末段EC提供了從烘焙紙取下馬卡龍的快速方法,只需一個簡單動作便能把外殼一次過與烘焙紙或矽膠墊分離,十分方便省時,所以要看到最後哦!


Earl Grey Orange Macarons (Swiss Method)
伯爵茶香橙馬卡龍(瑞士式做法)

makes 24 sandwiched cookies
24顆馬卡龍份量

Ingredients

For the Macaron Shells

60 g egg whites, divided
45 g granulated sugar
1/8 tsp cream of tartar (optional)
a pinch of salt
80 g ground almond
80 g icing sugar
1.5 bag of Earl Grey Tea
1 to 2 drops of purple gel food coloring

For the Orange Ganache Filling

50 g premium dark chocolate, chopped
50 g whipping cream
5 g unsalted butter, softened
1/8 tsp orange oil

材料

馬卡龍外殼

蛋白 60克 (分半)
細砂糖 45克
他他粉 1/8茶匙 (可不加)
鹽 少許
杏仁粉 80克
糖粉 80克
伯爵茶茶包 1.5個
紫色色膏 1至2滴

香橙朱古力夾餡

優質黑朱古力(切碎) 50克
淡忌廉 50克
無鹽牛油(室溫放軟) 5克
橙油 1/8茶匙

Directions 做法

For the Macaron Shells 馬卡龍外殼

Line baking sheet with parchment paper or silicon mat with a master template underneath. I use a silicon macaron mat that has all measurement imprinted. Macaron template can also be downloaded here.
焗盆內放圓形紙樣後墊上烘焙紙或矽膠墊備用(EC使用印有圓形的馬卡龍矽膠墊,也可在這裡下載紙樣)。

In a food processor, process ground almond and icing sugar until finely ground. Pass mixture through a sieve into a bowl (this will create macaron shells with a smoother surface). Cut open the teabags and stir the earl grey tea leaves into the almond-sugar mixture. Add half of the egg whites (food color may be added at this stage) and fold with a spatula into a thick paste. Set aside.
用食物處理器將杏仁粉及糖粉打成幼滑粉末,過篩放入大碗中(這樣做可令馬卡龍表面更光滑),剪開茶包倒進茶葉,加入一半蛋白(色膏也可同時加入)用膠刮拌成杏仁糊備用。

Before preparing the meringue, wipe the mixing bowl and the whisk attachment with paper towel and vinegar or lemon juice to remove any traces of grease. Place remaining egg whites, sugar, salt and cream of tartar (o to the mixing bowl. Set bowl over a pot of barely simmering water and whisk constantly until the temperature of an instant-read thermometer reaches 140°F/60°C. Keep stirring while heating so the egg whites won’t be cooked. Remove from heat and beat mixture with an electric mixer on high speed until meringue is cool and form a glossy and firm peak with a small tail.
製作蛋白霜前先將打蛋器配件及鋼盆用廚房紙沾點白醋或檸檬汁抹一次去除殘餘油污,鋼盆內放進餘下蛋白、糖、他他粉(如用)和鹽,小鍋內加水煮至微滾,將鋼盆放在小鍋上,開小火隔水加熱至140°F/ 60°C,其間要常常攪拌以免煮熟蛋白,用電動打蛋器將蛋白高速打發至溫度下降、有光澤、挺身、末段有小尾包的蛋白霜,備用。

Add half of the meringue to the almond paste and fold with a spatula to lighten. Then add the remaining meringue and fold until Incorporated. Start the macaronage by pressing the batter with the spatula against the sides of the bowl (this helps to deflate the meringue and smooth the batter). Then scrape batter back into the middle and fold the batter from the bottom to the top . Repeat this press and fold method while keeping an eye on the batter consistency. Stop folding when the batter becomes smooth and shiny. While the spatula is lifted up, batter should ribbon off the spatula and flow back slowly into the bowl then disappear itself in about 30 seconds.
把一半蛋白霜加入杏仁糊中以切拌方法拌勻,加入餘下蛋白霜拌勻後便可開始壓拌混合(macoronage)。用膠刮把麵糊壓往盆邊(作用是壓出氣泡令麵糊順滑),再把麵糊刮回盆子中央並把盆底的麵糊翻到上面,重覆壓拌動作並觀察麵糊流動狀況,若麵糊光亮呈濃稠狀,用膠刮翻起時如緞帶般整片滑落成摺疊狀而痕跡在30秒內緩慢的沉入麵糊即表示混合完成。

Scrape batter into a pastry bag fitted with a large plain piping tip (I used Wilton #2A). With the template as a guide, pipe out dollops of batter onto the prepared baking sheet. When done piping, remove paper template (if using) then tap baking sheet against the counter a few times to eliminate any trapped air bubbles. Pop bubbles that haven’t risen up to the surface with a toothpick. Let stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the weather and humidity, until the shells are dry to the touch.
將麵糊倒進已備圓形花嘴的唧花袋中(EC用Wilton #2A花嘴),在烘焙紙或矽膠墊上依紙樣唧出圓形後取走底部紙樣(如有),將焗盆往枱上拍幾下震掉氣泡,如發現仍有氣泡可用牙籤刺破,在室溫下靜置20﹣30分鐘至麵糊表面不黏手(視乎天氣及濕度)。

Preheat oven to 300ºF/150℃ 10 minutes before baking. Bake for 13 to 15 minutes or until the shells are set without browning. If you touch the shell and it feels firm and doesn’t wiggle it is done. Remove from oven and cool completely on a wire rack before removing.
焗爐事先預熱10分鐘至300℉/150℃,把焗盆放進焗爐焗13至15分鐘,以手指輕碰馬卡龍,若馬卡龍挺身沒上色不會搖動即代表已熟可以取出,在鋼架上完全放涼後可取下。

For the Filling 夾餡

Heat whipping cream in a saucepan over medium-low heat until it bubbles around the edges (but not boiling). Alternatively, microwave cream in a microwave-safe bowl on high. Add to chopped chocolate and let stand for two minutes. Stir with a spatula until combined. Stir in softened butter and orange oil until smooth and shiny. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until ganache has set.
將淡忌廉倒入小鍋中小火煮至邊緣冒泡後(用微波爐將淡忌廉加熱亦可)撞入朱古力碎中,靜置兩分鐘後以膠刮攪拌至朱古力完全融化,加入放軟牛油及橙油拌至順滑有光澤,蓋上保鮮紙,置室溫至凝固。

To Assemble 組合

Spoon the ganache into a piping bag fitted with a plain tip. Pair up shells of similar sizes. Pipe out dollop of filling on the flat side of a shell then top with the other one, flat side down. Store filled macarons in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 24 hours to let the filling fuse into the shells . Bring to room temperature, about 15 minutes, before serving.
配對形狀相若的馬卡龍,將夾餡裝進已備圓形花嘴的唧花袋中,唧在其中一塊外殼上(底部朝上),蓋上另一塊外殼(底部朝下),完成所有馬卡龍後放在密封盒中於雪櫃保存24小時使馬卡龍與夾餡融合,食用前把馬卡龍置室溫15分鐘回溫便可。

Here is a quick way to release all macaron shells from the mat or parchment paper all at once. After the shells (still sitting on the paper or mat) have cooled on the cooling rack, flip the entire mat or parchment paper over (the shells will stick onto the surface as long as they are left untouched). Lift up the corners and peel slowly towards the center. The shells will fall out on its own!
馬卡龍連烘焙紙或矽膠在鋼架放涼後,只需將紙或墊整張反轉(若沒有移取過馬卡龍外殼,它們是會牢牢的黏在紙或墊上不會掉落的),再手執紙或墊四角逐一慢慢地往中心撕開,馬卡龍便會輕鬆地往下掉,一次過給取出了!

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