Chocolate Chiffon Cupcakes 朱古力戚風杯子蛋糕

In the beginning of this year I’ve shared with my readers my recipe for Basic Chiffon Cupcakes along with some tips for success. Today I will share with you the chocolate version. And no, I didn’t just replace some flour with cocoa powder and then called it a day. In my blog post, Chocolate Chiffon Cake, I talked about how the fats in cocoa powder would cause the meringue to deflate. With that in mind I reduced the oil amount when I initially made my chocolate chiffon cupcakes. I proudly awaited the cupcakes thinking I would aced it on my first attempt. Unfortunately, when I peeked through the oven window during baking, I noticed that the cupcakes didn’t rise as high as the original flavors. They tasted good but just not as fluffy as I longed for. My meringue must have deflated too much (in fact the batter was only enough for 11 cupcakes instead of the normal 12). After a couple of more trials I concluded that for foam cakes that contain cocoa powder, a stiffer meringue should be used in order to ensure a proper rise.
年初時EC分享過原味戚風杯子蛋糕配方及製作要點，這次分享的是朱古力版本。不！並不是隨便用少量可可粉替代麵粉便成為朱古力口味的。 早在朱古力戚風蛋糕一文中，EC便提及過可可粉內的油脂會令蛋白霜加速消泡 。有見及此，首次製作朱古力杯子蛋糕時，EC已預先減掉了少許油份， 自信滿滿的想着第一次便應該可製作成功吧。 怎料烘焙中途從焗爐玻璃門偷看時已察看到杯子蛋糕上升情況不甚理想，蛋糕外貌不如原味的飽滿，味道雖好就是質地不像預期的鬆軟。這應該是蛋白霜過度消泡了(其實麵糊只夠製作11個杯子蛋糕而非慣常的12個)。隨後EC又試作了幾次，結論是若要避免含可可粉的泡沫類蛋糕入爐後蛋白霜消泡和膨脹不佳，蛋白霜不能打得過軟。

Now let me revise the 6 tips of success for making chocolate chiffon cupcakes. Note that the only change is the second point, which is the extent to which the meringue is beaten: (1) Increase flour amount for a stronger support. (2) Whip meringue until firm (but not stiff) peaks have reached to keep it from deflating. (3) Bake with a lower initial oven temperature followed by a gradual increase. (4) Reduce heat source from the lower baking element for a slow and steady rise. (5) Add some moisture by baking along with a cup of water. (6) Bake the cupcakes thoroughly and dry the top to prevent them from collapsing. Please visit my older post, Basic Chiffon Cupcakes for a thorough discussion for each point.
現在讓EC重新修訂一下朱古力戚風杯子蛋糕的六個成功製作要點，注意改變的只是第二點，亦即蛋白霜的打發程度：(一) 提高麵粉比例加強組織。(二)把蛋白霜打發至尾巴呈微彎小尖角的程度以防消泡。(三) 烘焙初時使用低溫然後將溫度逐步提升。(四) 減少底火以協助蛋糕穩定和慢慢爬升。(五) 烘焙時加點水增加濕度。(六) 杯子蛋糕要焗至完全熟透以免回縮。至於各項要點的詳細解釋請參考原味戚風杯子蛋糕。

I wanted more chocolate flavor with just enough sweetness for my cupcakes so I’ve adjusted the recipe a few times. To make the long story short, the following recipe proved to be my favorite. My recommended cocoa powder amount for this recipe ranges between 22 and 28 g. The more cocoa powder, the more sugar (I used organic cane sugar that has a noticeable sugarcane flavor) is needed or else the cupcakes would taste too bitter especially for kids. Feel free to adjust the cocoa powder and sugar amount yourself to create your version of the perfect chocolate cupcake.
EC想要朱古力味濃郁但又不甜的杯子蛋糕，因此在配方上作了幾次調整，箇中細節就不花時間多說了，以下分享的就是EC認為最好的。配方中的可可粉可在22至28克之間遊走，多添可可粉便要多添糖量(EC用帶有甘蔗味道的有機蔗糖)，否則杯子蛋糕味道會偏苦(尤其對小孩子來說)。 大家可自行增減可可粉和糖量調配出自己最喜愛的杯子蛋糕味道。

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Chocolate Chiffon Cupcakes
朱古力戚風杯子蛋糕

Makes 12
十二個份量

Ingredients

85 g cake and pastry flour
25 g cocoa powder
A pinch of salt
85 g milk
3 large egg yolks
45 g grapeseed oil (or any light tasting oil)
3 large egg whites
1/2 tsp white vinegar or lemon juice (I used Korean apple vinegar)
75 g granulated sugar (I used organic cane sugar)
Notes: the eggs I use each has a net weight of 50 – 55 g.

材料

低筋麵粉 85克
無糖可可粉 25克
鹽 少許
牛奶 85克
大蛋蛋黃 3個
葡萄籽油(或任何淡味食油) 45克
大蛋蛋白 3個
白醋或檸檬汁(EC用韓國蘋果醋) 1/2茶匙
細砂糖(EC用有機蔗糖) 75克
註：EC使用的大蛋每隻淨重50-55克

 

Directions 做法

Line cupcake pan with paper liners. Preheat oven to 300ºF/150ºC.
杯子蛋糕模內放紙模，焗爐預熱300ºF/150ºC。

Combine and sift together the flour, cocoa powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Make a well in the center then pour in the milk, egg yolks and oil. Whisk gently until incorporated. Set aside.
低筋麵粉，可可粉和鹽混合過篩放入鋼盆中，中開一穴後倒入牛奶，蛋黃和油，輕手用蛋拂攪拌均勻成蛋黃糊備用。

With a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip egg whites and vinegar (to stabilize the meringue) with medium-high speed until very foamy. Gradually add sugar in batches and continue beating with medium speed until soft peaks. Beat at medium-low speed until meringue is glossy and reaches firm peaks. When you lift up the whisk, the peak will hold its shape but the tip will fall back very slightly.
用電動打蛋器或座枱式攪拌器(使用打蛋器配件)將蛋白和醋(可令蛋白霜更穩定)中高速打至蛋白組織變細密，分次加糖中速打至軟勾狀，之後轉中低速打至蛋白霜有光澤及企身，蛋白霜拉起時末端呈輕微下垂狀。

Add one third of the meringue to the yolk batter and fold with a whisk to lighten. Add mixture back to the meringue and fold gently and thoroughly with a spatula until homogeneous. The batter should be thick and fall off from the spatula in a flat and ribbon-like pattern. If the batter is runny then your meringue has collapsed too much.
將三分一蛋白霜混入蛋黃糊中用蛋拂充份拌勻，再倒回蛋白霜中用膠刮輕手以切拌方法混合至顔色均一，完成麵糊質地應穠稠並會像緞帶狀落下，倘若麵糊是稀稀的即表示蛋白霜已消泡過多。

Divide batter evenly among liners. Place cupcake pan on a baking sheet to weaken the heat source from the lower baking element and place in the oven along with a small ramekin filled with hot water. Reduce oven temperature to 250ºF/120ºC and bake for 35 minutes. Increase to 300ºF/150ºC and bake for 20 minutes more until the cupcake surface feels springy and firm to the touch. All ovens are different so adjust baking time accordingly.
將麵糊平均分配放入紙模中，將模具放在烤盆上減低底火，連同一小杯熱水一起放入焗爐中以250ºF/120ºC焗35分鐘，之後轉300ºF/150ºC多焗20分鐘至輕按時蛋糕表面 有彈性和感覺結實，各家焗爐有别，請自行調節時間。

Remove from oven and cool in pan for 5 minutes. Transfer cupcakes to wire rack to cool completely. Store cupcakes in an airtight food container and let rest for half a day or until the surface of the cupcakes become soft again before serving.
出爐五分鐘後將杯子蛋糕取出移到冷卻架上完全放涼，把杯子蛋糕保存在密封食物盒內半天或至表皮回軟後可享用。

At first the cupcakes weren’t fluffy enough as my meringue was on the soft side.
初時蛋白霜打發得過於軟身，因此杯子蛋糕扁扁的不夠鬆軟。

In this trial I’ve beaten the meringue a bit too stiff. Some cupcakes already started to crack after 20 minutes of baking.
這次蛋白霜打得有點兒過硬，入爐約20分鐘後部份杯子蛋糕已開始爆面。

These ones shrunk shortly after coming out from the oven as I didn’t bake them long enough.
這批因烘焙時間不足，出爐後不久便回縮。

I filled the cupcakes with dark chocolate ganache then decorated with a swirl of vanilla bean Swiss meringue buttercream. Check out my blog post, Ganache Filled Vanilla Chiffon Cupcakes with Vanilla Bean Swiss Meringue Buttercream, for the buttercream recipe.
EC把黑朱古力醬注入杯子蛋糕內，上面以雲尼拿瑞士蛋白奶油霜作裝飾。奶油霜食譜詳見軟心朱古力雲尼拿戚風杯子蛋糕配雲尼拿籽瑞士蛋白奶油霜。

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